What is hydrosol and how can I use it?
24/04/2025
Hydrosols, or herbal water, are pure, natural water that is produced by distilling plants. ”Hydro”
Ingredients we avoid
- Signe
The world of cosmetic ingredients is very diverse and I would say complex. There are many different synonyms for each of the names and, in order to survive in this whole world, I have done some research. Let's take a look at the different cosmetic ingredients I would recommend avoiding.
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
SAMUTI KA: Octinoxate, Octyl Methoxycinnamate
It is a chemical compound that is the most widely used protective filter in the world in sunscreens and other skin care products.
Incidentally, it only protects against UVB radiation, not UVA.
In cosmetics, it also acts as a photostabiliser and helps protect colours and fragrances.
The ingredient is not prohibited.
However, it is strongly advised not to use in pregnant women and children and adolescents under 2 years of age as it is absorbed in breast milk and affects hormones.
In addition, the ingredient is very dangerous for wildlife as it is insoluble in water.
Some of the other ingredients that we recommend looking at in sunscreens to make sure they are not in are:
Octocrylene – When exposed to ultraviolet light, this chemical absorbs rays and forms oxygen radicals that can damage our skin cells and cause mutations.
This ingredient is readily absorbed into the skin and can accumulate in the body in measurable amounts.
It has also been found in breast milk.
In addition, it is toxic to the environment.
Oxybenzone – This ingredient helps other ingredients to absorb more quickly through our skin, but it causes a chemical reaction when exposed to UV rays.
When oxybenzone is absorbed into the skin, it can cause an eczematous allergic reaction, and this can last for a long time after exposure to the sun.
Like Octocrylene, Oxybenozone also alters hormonal levels.
This substance is absorbed very quickly into the skin and is difficult for our bodies to get rid of.
For example, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), 97 percent of Americans have this chemical circulating in their bodies because it can build up faster than our bodies can get rid of it.
Homosalate – This UV-absorbing ingredient helps the sunscreen penetrate the skin.
Once the ingredient is absorbed, homosalate builds up in our bodies faster than we can get rid of it, becoming toxic and disrupting our hormones.
Octisalate – a substance that can cause allergic reactions in the skin.
Here you will find high standard sunscreen products containing natural sunscreen (titanium dioxide).
Daily Sun products have an innovative chemical protection filter, which is considered the safest for people and the ecosystem.
They do not leave a white layer, but they do not carry an eco-certificate.
Find all Alphanova Sun products HERE.
Sources:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Explained + Products) (incidecoder.com)
ETHYL PARABEN
SAMUTI KA: isobutylparaben, phenylparaben, benzylparaben, pentylparaben,
Parabens are used as preservatives in cosmetics to prevent the formation of bacteria and mould.
However, parabens have been studied and found to interfere with the production of hormones in the body and damage fertility.
The fate of paraben was decided in 2004.
A study published in 2004 tested 20 human breast tumours and found parabens in all of them. By the way see was before the age of social media, but this study still managed to spread enough that paraben = carcinogenic preservative.
The parabens listed above are banned in European cosmetics, but not in the USA.
In addition, parabens are found in a number of different forms that are not banned but regulated.
Unfortunately, however, there is often insufficient control of ingredients, so I would recommend avoiding all products with parabens in the ingredients.
Sources:
TALC
ALSO: COSMETIC TALC, FRENCH CHALK, MAGNESIUM SILICATE TALC, TALC (MG3H2(SIO3)4)
It is a naturally occurring powdery product, but it does occur and is mined together with asbestos, a very potent carcinogen.
Although a lot of research has been done and talc free of ‘asbestos’ is being sold, I would not dare to use it.
Tallow is very much found in traditional cosmetics and baby powder is based on tallow!
Sources:
PARAFFIN
SAMUTI KA: paraffin liquidum, mineral oil, petrolatum, petroleum, petroleum jelly
Paraffin wax, in simplest terms, is a by-product of petroleum, obtained from the production of petrol.
Petroleum, on the other hand, is a non-renewable and toxic natural resource.
The reason paraffin is used in cosmetics is because it is cheap.
While paraffin wax, used in the cosmetics industry, softens the skin (you’ve probably heard of paraffin treatments in salons and spas), in reality it is a chemical that creates a filmy layer on the skin, prevents it from breathing, which in turn clogs pores, premature ageing, etc.
PHTHALATES
SAMUTI KA: dibutyl phthalate, diethyl phthalate
They are used in particular in perfumes to keep their fragrance on the skin for longer.
Phthalates are very dangerous and have been scientifically proven to affect pregnancy, the weight of the unborn child.
Unfortunately, this is an ingredient that is often not labelled on the packaging.
Because the ingredients of perfumes are classified, we don’t know how much is used.
We recommend using essential oils or Estonia’s own HURM perfumes instead of perfumes.
SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCES
SAMUTI KA: aroma, parfum, perfume, fragrance
Synthetic fragrances are chemicals created in a laboratory.
Synthetic fragrances can cause allergies, skin irritation, itching, headaches, fatigue, dermatitis, pigmentation spots, and can be toxic and carcinogenic.
Essential oils can be used as a substitute for synthetic fragrances.
Please note that fragrance oils are also synthetic, so VegePures only uses 100% essential oils in our products.
At VegePure you will find more 100% essential oils of grass.
SYNTHETIC DYES
There are many different types of synthetic dyes.
They give bright shades.
The best known of these is RED40 or magic red.
Synthetic dyes are synthesised from petroleum.
Is it possible to replace them?
Of course!
With mineral and vegetable pigments!
One of the most popular is iron oxide, which is found in nature and does not cause allergies, etc.
CLOSED
SAMUTI KA: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfoacetate (SLES), Sodium Laureth Sulfate or Ammoniom Laureth Sulfate (ALES), Sodium Coco-Sulfate (SCS).
Sulphates are used in particular in shampoos and shower gels to add lather.
Sulphates can be of natural or synthetic origin.
Sulphates are mostly derived from petroleum, but naturally occurring sulphates are also derived from coconut and other plant oils.
Sulphates of natural origin:
- Sodium Laureth Sulfoacetate (SLES)
- Sodium Coco-Sulfate (SCS)
However, if you have a very sensitive scalp, we recommend avoiding sulphates altogether.
For example, you can find natural, sulfate-free solid shampoos and conditioners from the Estonian brand Pure Shores Artisan.
ALUMINIUM
Aluminium is a heavy metal that is very difficult to excrete from the body.
It is used in deodorants to help block sweat glands and prevent perspiration.
However, it is harmful to the human body and can cause cancer (especially in women) if used over long periods.
In addition, aluminium is also associated with Alzheimer’s disease.
You can read more about natural deodorants HERE.
SILICONE
SAMUTI KA: dimethicone, cyclomethicone, diphenyl methicone, dimethicone
Silicones are common additives in shampoos, conditioners and skin care products to provide moisturising properties.
However, silicone can cause allergies, redness, itching.
The product is not biodegradable and therefore remains in the environment for a long time, polluting nature and the water environment.
Note that silicone is also used in mineral cosmetics, but under the slightly different name of silica, or siliceous silica, which is produced from sand.
Phenoxyethanol
SAMUTI KA: Phenoxyethanol 2-phenoxyethanol Euxyl K® 400 (mixture of phenoxyethanol and 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane) PhE
Phenoxyethanol or phenoxyethanol is a preservative widely used in a variety of cosmetic products, including creams, moisturisers, shampoos, soaps, etc.
It helps to preserve the quality of the products and prevents the growth of bacteria, fungi.
However, there are different opinions on the safety of this substance.
It helps to preserve the quality of the products and prevents the growth of bacteria, fungi.
However, there are different opinions on the safety of this substance.
In general, phenoxyethanol is considered relatively safe when used in cosmetics at levels below 1%.
No preservative should be present in the formulation of a product above 1% (please note – in the European Union).
However, some studies suggest that the preservative may irritate the skin, especially sensitive skin.
Allergic reactions have also been found.
However, the allergic reaction disappeared after avoiding the ingredient.
It is important to be careful with young children because phenoxyethanol may affect the nervous system.
2008.
In 2008, the FDA warned consumers not to buy Mommy’s Bliss Nipple Cream because it contained phenoxyethanol inhibited the central nervous system and caused vomiting and diarrhoea in breastfeeding infants.
2015.
aasta uuring näitas, et doppleri ultraheligeel põhjustas nahapõletikku, kuna see geel on segatud kokku parabeenidega, mis teeb toote veel mitmeid kordi hullemaks.
Phenoxyethanol is an animal-tested preservative.
It is therefore not suitable for vegan cosmetics.
While phenoxyethanol can be found naturally in green tea, the industrial ingredient is synthetically produced in a laboratory.
Common animal cosmetic ingredients
Carmine (Carmine)
A red pigment obtained from crushed tortoiseshell.
Beeswax (Beeswax, Cera alba, Cera flava)
Bee wax gland secretions.
Alternatively, you could use, for example, cinnamon wax from the candelilla plant or carnauba wax from the Brazilian palm tree.
Animal Fats and Oils (Tallow, Sodium Tallowate, Hydrogenated Tallow, Fatty Acids, Sodium Salts, Suet, Lard, Animal Fat, Stearic Acid, Dihydrogenated Tallow Phthalic Acid Amide, Hydrogenated Tallow Betaine, Oleic, Benzoic, Myristic Acids).
Alternatively, vegetable oils such as coconut oil can be used.
Keratin (Keratins, Animal Keratin, Keratin Amino Acids, Hydrolysed (Animal) Protein, Cheratina, Detoxin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin)
It is obtained from horns, claws, hooves, feathers and also animal hair.
Used in hair and nail care products.
Collagen (Collagen, Hydrolysed collagen)
Animal protein, mostly from chicken feet and animal dung.
Popularised in anti-ageing skin care products as a wrinkle smoothing agent, despite the fact that the collagen molecule is very poorly absorbed (if at all) and does not induce natural collagen production in the skin.
Oestradiol (estradiol, oestrogen, conjugated oestrogens, Premarin)
A female hormone obtained from the urine of pregnant mares.
It is found in creams, perfumes and also in birth control pills.
Hyaluronic Acid (Hyalyronic Acid)
The most common source of hyaluronic acid is bark but it can also be extracted from bacterial cultures.
It binds moisture in the skin and maintains the elasticity of collagen tissues, which is why it is used in fillers, moisturising serums, masks and creams.
Glycerol/Glycerin (Glycerin/Glycerol)
A colourless, odourless viscous liquid derived from animal fats.
Alternatively, it can also be obtained from coconut and soybean oils.
Glycerine is a by-product of soap production used to improve the softness and lubricity of products and for its moisturising properties.
Guanine (Guanine, CI75170, Crystalline Guanine, Natural Pearl Essence)
Guanine is a constituent of bird, bat and reptile droppings.
Or an alcohol distillate with finely ground fish bones, used in lipsticks, nail varnishes, shampoos to give a shimmering effect.
Casein (Casein, Caseinate, Sodium Caseinate)
Cow’s milk protein used in hair care products and face masks.
(And in the treatment of condoms).
Skvaleen (Squalene)
Obtained from shark liver, but alternatively can also be obtained from olive oil.
It is used in creams, lotions and serums because of its well-absorbing, emollient and astringent properties.
Ambergris or grey amber (Ambergris)
A fragrant waxy substance produced in the large intestine of a chamomile and used in perfumes.
There is a synthetic alternative.
Urea, Uric Acid, Allantoin, Alcloxa, Aldioxa, Carbamide, Imidazolidinyl Urea (Urea)
Derived from animal urine.
Used in creams, deodorants, hair dyes and oral hygiene products.
A synthetic alternative is available.
Cholesterol (Cholesterol)
An animal fat derivative used in anti-ageing creams to smooth wrinkles.
Lanolin (Lanolin, Aliphatic Alcohol, Cholesterol, Isopropyl Lanolate, Laneth, Lanogen, Lanolin Acids, Wool Fat, Wool Wax, Lanolin Alcohol, Lanosterols, Triterpene Alcohols, Lanthionine)
Wool wax, a yellowish-white oily substance secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals.
Purified lanolin is used in the cosmetics industry for everything from lipsticks and creams to shaving foams and eyebrow creams.
Lecithin (Lecithin)
A waxy substance derived from milk, blood and eggs.
Used in creams, soaps, shampoos, lipsticks.
The vegan-friendly version is called soy lecithin, made from soybeans.
Musk (Musk)
Excreta from the gonads of male muskoxen, beavers, otters, wild cats, used in the perfumery industry.
A synthetic alternative is available.
Look for the word cruelty-free musk on the perfume bottle.
Oleic Acid (Oleic Acid)
A fatty acid of animal origin used as a emollient in both liquid and solid soaps, nail polishes and various skin care products.
A natural alternative is obtained from olives and nuts.
Placenta (Placenta, Poypeptides Protein, Placentine, Protein Hydrolysate)
In most cases, the placenta comes from animals slaughtered at the slaughterhouse.
It is used in creams, shampoos, hair conditioners.
Stearic acid (stearic acid)
Unless a product is specifically labelled as being of plant origin, it is likely to be made from the fat of a variety of animals, such as cows, pigs and sheep.
Gelatin (Gelatin, Gel, Hide Glue, Isinglass, Kosher, Halal Gelatin)
A glutinous liquid boiled from bones, tendons, cartilage, capsules, skin and collagen.
Used in shampoos, face masks, nail care products and polish removers.
Siin on sulle veel lugemist!
What are sulfates? The truth the cosmetics industry doesn’t tell you!
09/04/2025
Sulfates are powerful cleansers in many everyday beauty products – shampoos, shower gels, facial cleansers
