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What are sulfates? The truth the cosmetics industry doesn’t tell you!

  • April 9, 2025
  • Signe

Sulfates are powerful cleansers in many everyday beauty products – shampoos, shower gels, facial cleansers and even toothpaste. If you’ve ever noticed a product saying “sulfate-free”, it’s worth knowing why it’s emphasized. Sulfates can do more harm than good for sensitive skin and hair. Here’s a simple and easy way to find out what sulfates are, how they affect your skin and hair, and why more and more people are avoiding them.

What exactly are sulfates?

Sulfates are synthetic or natural cleaning agents used to remove dirt, oil, and grime. They are the substances that make products foam nicely. The most common ones are:

  • Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
  • Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
  • Sodium Coco-Sulfate (SCS)

Why are sulfates used?

SLS was originally created not for beauty products but for industrial cleaning products – for example, for washing machines, floors and engines. This substance proved to be extremely effective in removing dirt and grease, even in the most difficult conditions.

People associate foam with cleanliness. Sulfates quickly became popular in shampoos and soaps because they lather richly, giving the impression of deep cleansing. This was especially popular in the 1960s and 1970s, when beauty and hygiene habits became increasingly important.

Sulfates are very cheap to synthesize, which made them ideal for mass production. Cosmetic brands were able to use them in large quantities at low cost, keeping their products accessible to as many people as possible.

Sulfates are chemically stable. This means that products remain usable for longer and can be marketed around the world without fear of rapid spoilage. This has also contributed to the birth of large global brands.

Since the 1990s, there has been an increased interest in this , how sulfates affect the skin’s microbiome and barrier, and hair structure. The first scientific studies appeared, pointing to dryness, irritation, and disruption of the skin’s natural balance. This led to the first wave of sulfate-free products – first in niche brands, and later in larger chain brands.

You can find data and research on sulfates here.

Aiva shampoos contain Sodium Coco-Sulfate (SCS), which is of natural origin and made from coconut.

What problems can sulfates cause?

If you have sensitive, dry, or irritated skin (including dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, couperose), sulfates can cause several problems:

  • dryness and a pulling sensation on the skin

  • irritation, redness, and itching

  • flaky scalp or dandruff

  • damaged hair that becomes dull and brittle

You should be especially careful with children’s products, intimate washes, and facial cleansers. These should be completely free of sulfates.

looduslik-turba-šampoon
Nurme shampoos also contain Sodium Coco-Sulfate (SCS), which is of natural origin and made from coconut.

Are sulfates tested on animals?

Yes, sulfates have historically been tested on animals, especially in their early days when ingredients were evaluated for irritation and safety before widespread use in humans.

One of the best-known tests was the Draize test, in which a substance was dropped into the eye or placed on the shaved skin of an animal (usually a rabbit) to assess whether it caused irritation, redness, or damage. Sulfates, especially SLS, often caused severe irritation, which is why they were studied more as potential irritants.

In addition, acute toxicity tests were performed on rats or mice to see what amount of the substance would cause a toxic reaction. SLS is not toxic in small amounts, but in large doses it can be dangerous to the digestive tract and mucous membranes.

Fortunately, animal testing in cosmetics has been banned in the European Union since 2013, including ingredient testing. This means that sulfates can no longer be tested on animals in Europe if they are only used in cosmetics.

However, if some sulfate compounds are also used in other industries (e.g. pharmaceuticals, household chemicals), they may still be the subject of animal testing for other purposes.

Some countries, such as China, until recently required animal testing for certain imported cosmetic products, but the rules have also begun to be relaxed there.

Are all sulfates bad?

Not necessarily. Natural sulfates are gentler on the skin and in small amounts in well-formulated products may not cause any problems at all. However, for someone with very sensitive skin or for daily use, a completely sulfate-free product is a safer choice.

We recommend choosing sulfate-free, coconut-based glycosides such as:

  • Coco-Glucoside (This is made from coconut oil and glucose)

  • Decyl Glucoside (This is made from grape sugar and coconut oil or palm fat. The result is a biodegradable and skin-friendly detergent)

  • Lauryl Glucoside (This is made from grape sugar or corn lauric acid, which is a fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm fat.)

They cleanse gently, don’t foam as much, but maintain the skin’s moisture balance and don’t cause irritation.

In the VegePure range, you will find completely sulfate-free options such as Pure Shores Artisan products and Nurme solid shampoos.

“Bondi Beach niisutav tahke šampoon normaalsele ja kuivale juuksetüübile 80g” has been added to your cart. View cart
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What does coconut-based sulfate mean?

Although coconut-based sulfate is milder and more natural (can be used in natural cosmetics), it is still a sulfate.

That is why we have only included products containing strictly controlled coconut-based sulfate in our product range. For example, one important certification for coconut-based sulfate is COSMOS Ecocert. This means that the sulfate is made from a natural source and the processing follows a strict standard. Sodium coco-sulfate is one of them. This also means that the amount of sulfate should be specified in the product so that there is not too much of it (1-10%), compared to synthetic sulfates, where this amount can be as much as 40%!

As a rule, brands try to keep the amount of coconut-based sulfate in shampoos between 1% and 5%.

Manufacturers are not required to list exact ingredient quantities on the label. The INCI list (or ingredient list) must list the ingredients in descending order – if sodium coco-sulfate is at the beginning of the list, the amount may be higher, if it is in the middle or at the end, it is likely to be lower.

Therefore, natural cosmetic products may not lather as nicely as cheaper shampoos. But this does not mean that your hair will remain black.

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In addition to yourself, take care of your husband and children and check what ingredients are in his shampoo. Often, dandruff is caused by the shampoo itself and just changing the shampoo is enough.

All the beauty products we use are absorbed into our bodies through our skin, so we should be very critical about the ingredients in the products we use. If you want to be gentler on your skin and hair, look for sulfate-free or coconut-based sulfate-free products. They are sometimes more expensive, but your skin health will thank you.

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